Perhaps one day you will find yourself in the cold, northern Spanish city of Burgos. I’d certainly recommend a visit: its cathedral is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and its second main attraction is a fascinating Museum of Human Evolution, and its certainly pretty enough to make you want to spend the day taking hundreds of photos.
But, as with any place you visit, in my opinion one of the most important things to consider is the food. Where to eat? Where to stop for tea/coffee? Nobody wants to force down second rate tapas, when the patatas bravas of your dreams are just around the corner. So I have compiled a list of my favourite places I have visited throughout my time here. And even though I’ve visited some of these places many times, I still had to double check a few names (I’m definitely a know by sight, not by name person).
Calle de Lain Calvo, 12
I thought I’d start with the cafes I’d recommend, and no better cafe to start with than one I fell in love with almost straight away, and have since recommended it to nearly everyone who will listen. It’s one of the oldest cafes in Burgos, founded in 1912, and I love it simply because it has a HUGE selection of delicious teas, all served loose leaf in teapots with adorable vintage teacups. It also have a wide variety of coffees to choose from, and alcohol if you fancy. It even does coffee and tea liquors. That’s right: tea with liquor. I’ve had their Irish tea a couple of times and it is surprisingly delicious. Also on the menu are amazing cakes, and the staff are super friendly. On Sundays it does live poetry I am yet to attend, and sometimes has live jazz (not sure what day though).
Paseo Del Espolon, 16
Truth be told I’ve started boycotting this cafe because they stopped stocking chai tea, which was why I frequented the place. I don’t think they miss me, but unless you’ve a craving for chai tea it is still an excellent cafe for different beverages and sweet treats. It has the perfect location by the river, and I love it for always playing smooth jazz in the background. Its atmosphere is very relaxed (even if the service is typically Spanish slow), and it is also reportedly the best place in Burgos for churros. I’ve had them (during my first month here when I tried to order a muffin and ended up with churros somehow), they are good!
Calle Santa Clara, 13
Owned by a Frenchman, this is the perfect place to go to when in need of wine and cheese. Although it is south of the river rather than extremely central, it is still worth venturing to as it has a bright atmosphere, and who can resist an excellent choice of wine, cheese, and more? The owner too is a friendly guy, which makes a place all the more welcoming to visit (plus I like seeing the owner present in a bar/restaurant, to m it shows they really care for the place and delivering a good time to customers).
Calle Huerto del Rey, 18
If you fancy tapas that is basically delicious meat, look no further. This Argentinian style bar does amazing tapas and pintxos, and although it looks swanky and the food is great quality: the price is extremely satisfying too! I’ve had both tapas and proper meals there, and although I’d recommend the tapas over the meals for quality, I’ve never been disappointed. As well as beef it also does pork and seafood based dishes, and vegetarian options can be found.
Calle de la Paloma, 33
This place is usually crowded, which is annoying for finding a seat or even a space to put your food and drink, but it also means it’s a place popular with the locals for a reason. I like coming here for their patatas bravas, or their mussels (tried, tested and approved both the mussels with the bravas sauce, and with hot butter). It’s cheap, with good wine, and the food is served very quickly but still very enjoyable.
Viva la Pepa
Paseo del Espolón, 4
One of my favourite restaurants in Burgos. It has a good choice of international and vegetarian dishes for those who are maybe less keen on morcilla, chorizo and jamon based dishes (those are still available of course). It also has excellent choices for the typical Spanish Menu del Dia, my favourite dishes include a salmon wrap and their Wok style dishes. They also serve a-maz-ing smoothies and frappes, and the restaurant itself is light and airy with friendly staff.
Calle de Avellanos, 8
A rather fitting name, this restaurant is pricey but sitting down to eat is worth it! When I have eaten there before with my mum and her partner, one waitress took the time to explain to us the different meats from a pig (with free samples) and explained the menu to me in simple Spanish so I could translate. It’s that level of kindness that I think characterises the Spanish.
Calle de Fernan Gonzalez, 37
An unusual choice for me, because this is a vegan restaurant and usually the word ‘vegan’ has me running far, far away. However even the keenest meat eater will enjoy the amazing food here. It’s only open Mon-Fri during the lunch hour, which can mean a long queue and maybe you’ll be asked to come back in half an hour or more, but for 10 euros you receive a 4 course meal that changes regularly, but never disappoints. The owners have created their recipes from their travels and local dishes, and its a small but friendly place with a cosy atmosphere.
Calle de Vitoria, 5
I dined here once when I first started living in Burgos. Unbeknownst to me at the time it is one of the fanciest restaurants in Burgos. Whilst I felt like the platos combinados I shared with a friend left a lot to be desired, the tapas we also ordered were perfect. It was also the first time I tried to Burgos morcilla (black pudding), and it was sooooo good. It was a very relaxing place, with friendly staff too which always helps to meal to be enjoyed more. Not as cheap as some other places to eat, but worth a visit! (It also has a delicatessen next door which always leaves my mouth watering).
So there are my places to wine and dine in Burgos! There are a few more places I considered adding to the list, but these are the places that have left me with the best impressions. Of course, sometimes it is fun to ignore any guides or recommendations and just discover for yourself 😉
On a totally unrelated note, does anyone have any tips for increasing memory on WordPress media? I have quite a few photos to upload from recent trips and no memory left 😮 And of course I can’t have my blog from now on a pictureless scene, how boring. WordPress recommend upgrading to Premium but that’s about £50 a year and I kind of like having a blog for free…. Any help much appreciated!